Thursday, September 27, 2007

Latin American Idol Support Party

On Wednesday evening the fabulous owner of Blintz threw a support party for Guatemala's very own Carlos Peña in the finals of Latin American Idol. Quite amazingly this 19 year old made it all the way to the end out of thousands from 23 different countries in Latin America.

Lucy brought in 2 televisions to the tiny cafe and decorated with streamers, photos, and balloons to set the atmosphere. Then I, my co-worker, and others all gathered to enjoy a coffee and watch the performances. Additionally, Lucy offered all visitors a free coffee or smoothie if they submitted text votes for Carlos. Unfortunately my phone was screwing up so I couldn't get a free drink, but it was fun anyhow.

Last night she hosted a party again, but I had class and couldn't show my support for Carlos. Luckily, I made it home to see the final announcement that Carlos Peña did indeed win Latin American Idol (2nd Season)! Immediately following the news I heard fire-crackers in my neighborhood in celebration for Guatemala's pride....Carlos. Woo Hoo!

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Pagan Saint - San Simón


During our trip to Zuníl, we also took the time to visit the pagan saint San Simón in the house where he is currently being held. Many people bring offerings of cigarettes, alcohol, and many colored candles each representing different requests. We had to wind through the streets following various signs to guide us to San Simón's house for this year. We had to pay an entrance fee of Q10 each, but he's such an icon here that it was worth it. Normally, pictures are not allowed unless paid for, so Toby and I snuck in the camera and took a few candid shots.

*Below, I have copied information about San Simón/Maximón from wikipedia because it offers a very accurate and informational depiction of this pagan saint, and probably better than I could tell.


Maximón is a saint worshipped in various forms by Maya people of several towns in the highlands of Western Guatemala. The origins of his cult are not very well understood by outsiders to the different Mayan religions, but he is believed to be a form of the pre-Colombian Maya god Mam, blended with influences from Catholicism.Maximón may also be called San Simón.

Originally, he was believed to be a catholic priest who had looked after aboriginals during early 1600s. Where he is venerated, he is represented by an effigy which resides in a different house each year, being moved in a procession during Holy Week. During the rest of the year, devotees visit Maximón in his chosen residence, where his shrine is usually attended by two people from the representing Cofradia who keep the shrine in order and pass offerings from visitors to the effigy. Worshippers offer money, spirits and cigars or cigarettes to gain his favour in exchange for good health, good crops and marriage counseling, amongst other favours. The effigy invariably has a lit cigarette or cigar in its mouth, and in some places, it will have a hole in its mouth to allow the attendants to give it spirits to drink.

Maximón is generally dressed in European 18th century style, although with many local variations. In Santiago Atitlán he is adorned with many colorful garlands, while in Zuníl (where he is known as San Simón) he has a much more intimidating style, with his face obscured by dark sunglasses and a bandanna.

The worship of Maximón treats him not so much as a benevolent deity as a bit of a bully whom it's wise to keep on the right side of, he is also known to be a link between Xibalbá "The Underworld" and Bitol "Corazón del Cielo." His expensive tastes in alcohol and cigarettes indicate that he is a very human character, very different from the ascetic ideals of Christian sainthood. Devotees believe that prayers for revenge, or success at the expense of others, are likely to be granted by Maximón.

Saturday, September 22, 2007

Fuentes Georginas


About a week and a half ago, Toby and I traveled to Xela to visit our friends. Our visit was motivated by a few main reasons: 1) eat yummy food at a variety of restaurants, 2) share in card games and good company with Joel and Jessica, and 3) travel to the natural warm springs called Fuentes Georginas.


The trip to the fuentes begins in a little town called Zunil, about 30 minutes bus ride from Xela. From Zunil we chose to hike all the way up the country-side hills about 5 miles to reach the pools. It's possible to pay for a ride up in a pick-up truck, but we prefer the exercise, crisp mountain air, and wonderful views of fields, sulfur spouts, and Volcán Santa María.


When we reached the top it was a lovely treat to soak our tired legs in the naturally forming warm pools that are set in a a lush green mountain-side very high in altitude. After being there only a short while the fog rolled in and created a very mystical atmosphere to the whole place. It was a great way to get out of the city and spend an afternoon with friends.



Probably the best part of our visit at Fuentes Georginas was the confusing notice posted by the pool stairs. As you can see....no cornucopias are allowed in the pools, and all pets must wear appropriate bathing suits before entering! Ha ha!

Thursday, September 13, 2007

Happy Birthday Toby!

HAPPY 24TH BIRTHDAY TOBY!!!

WE LOVE YOU. XOXO

Guatemalan Entrepreneurial Spirit

I just love the entrepreneurial spirit of the Guatemalan people. It is amazing how many little vendors, shop owners, and trinket sellers that can be found in this country. For this reason, I wanted to share a little story about our wait in the bus terminal in Xela.
Yesterday, Toby and I traveled home from Xela to Quiché after a splendid visit with our friends. In the 30 minutes we waited in the terminal to depart we were harassed and offered a wide assortment of goodies, some multiple times, but none that we bought. What's really annoying is that the people often drop the things in your lap or shove it in your face to try and make a sale. At times we had 2-3 people at once selling food and merchandise. The following is a list of the number of vendors and what they sold. *This is not an exaggeration. I am a nerd and began counting vendors because of the sheer number and absurdity.

5: sodas and waters
3: peanuts
3: key chains
2: pizza
2: crackers (one lady came on twice)
2: gum
2: candy
2: toothpaste
2: random booklets for studying anything from English to medicinal plants
2: ice cream
2: pens
1: hamburgers
1: jello
1: chuchitos (Guatemalan food made with corn masa)
1: cologne
1: wallets
1: a man showing his deformed hand and asking for money
1: a man purely begging for money and saying God with bless those who give

Based on these numbers, I count more than 1 a minute jumping on the bus and trying to sell to us passengers. Although, it very well could have been more because I began counting late, and they were coming so fast it was hard to keep up. It's times like these that I just sit back with a smile on my face and say.....Ahh....Welcome to Guatemala!

Friday, September 7, 2007

Casey's Visit


This last week we had a family friend of Brittany's Aunt Steph come to visit us here in Quiché as he is currently studying Spanish at a school in Antigua, Guatemala. With only a few directions of how to get here on a chicken bus, Casey met us at the town bus terminal, a good place to get your first and dirtiest taste of Quiché. Having not met Casey prior to this, one would not have known we weren't all friends, as we were instantly comfortable with one another. Some how like minded people usually just click...


After a quick tour of the office we headed to "Cafe Blintz" for Coffee, Crepes, and Cards with our Spanish friend and fellow volunteer Raquel. Always excited to have a fourth person for hearts, the night was loaded with plenty of hearts as well as some other card games. We even learned a few new ones like "Pounce" from Casey and "Qen" from Raquel. At 9:00 when Blintz closed, we took our game to the local bar "Casa Vieja" for more cards, only this time with cerveza. After a round of Coronas and cards, a few drunk Guatemalans came over and introduced themselves, obviously drawn to our presence by our American accents and of course the presence of the girls, the only 2 in the bar out of about 30 guys. It wasn't long before they offered to buy us free beers. Toby was nicknamed the "Bullshit Boy" by Raquel after having to bullshit the drunk men about why they should buy the girls Coronas rather than the much harsher Gallo which they bought for the boys. This all came along with having an intense conversation (in Spanish nonetheless) about what beers are the best, etc. while we drank our free beers. Perhaps the funniest part of the evening was when one of the Guatemalans, a Gallo Beer distributor, offered Toby a Gallo keepsake in the form of a bottle opener keychain. He was however quickly humbled when Toby pointed out that the keychain was for a rival beer, rather than Gallo and suggested the gentleman keep his bottle opener. Six FREE beers and some more BS later, the Guatemalans left for the night and we finished our drinks and headed home as well.

The next day we went with Casey and Raquel to the local ruinas for some lunch (gracias a Raquel), peace and quiet (as we all had been woken up by firecrackers at 3 AM the night before), and some cave exploration. This time we found a second more narrowcave below the main one we usually visit, but also used by the current Mayans for ceremonies and worship.

Attempting to return Casey to Antigua, we went to the terminal to drop him off, only to find that the buses stopped at 5 PM. (Since when do the chicken buses stop!?!¿!? We had no idea). We didn't mind, since this allowed us to play more cards and visit with Casey. Finally, Casey was able to leave the next morning at about 4 AM, hopefully taking some good memories of "real" Guatemala with him.

Wednesday, September 5, 2007

The Pierings Visit Guatemala

Jerry and LeAnn Piering were the first family visitors to see us here in Guatemala since our departure in February. We had a terrific visit with them. Everything went surprisingly smooth for planning a vacation in a developing country! The weather was very cooperative too, with 1 day of rain during this supposed "rainy" season.

We are very appreciative to Jerry and LeAnn for their generosity throughout the trip. They graciously brought 2 boxes worth of English videos, books, and magazines to help build our library of materials and resources for our classes. They also kindly brought us some of our favorite treats and snacks from the United States that we aren't able to get here in Guatemala. Paydays and pretzels...WOO HOO! Additionally, they funded much of our travel, food, and accomodations during the trip...in exhange for our tour guide, coordinating, and translating expertise.
Our travel agenda consisted of visiting quite a few locations in the country. We first spent a few days in the beautiful colonial Antigua. Here we were able to see ruins, take in the wonderful scenery, and eat at some great restaurants. From Antigua we headed to Flores on a 10 hour bus trip over to the Petén. We stayed the night in Flores and enjoyed the fresh breezes on the island in Lake Itzá. From Flores we headed up to the Parque Nacional Tikal to enjoy a few days in the park and exploring the ruins. After summiting temples and spying on spider monkeys we headed back on the bus to begin our trek to the Western Highlands.

After all our travel it was nice to be home in Quiché! Nieve appreciated having attention from all four of us. We enjoyed showing LeAnn and Jerry the Fiestas Elenas exploding all over our town....including 4 ferris wheels (a bit excessive) in the rides area. We took them to the local ruins of Gumarkaaj which aren't that impressive compared with Tikal, but nonetheless very interesting. We saw a couple excavations taking place in the grounds as well as the usual Mayan religious ceremonies taking place. In the largest cave we saw candles and chicken heads dotted throughout. Jerry even made friends with some local Mayan children.

Upon leaving the Western Highlands we swung through the famous Chichi market on Sunday to buy souvenirs and gifts for folks back home. We proudly did our best bargaining with the vendors to save LeAnn hundreds of quetzales on her purchases. Some may feel this is a bit harsh since they are trying to make a living here in a developing country, but When in Guatemala....do as the Guatemalans. Bargaining is pretty much expected here in the markets!

We spent a few more nights in Antigua before sending the Pierings back home to Oregon and heading back to Quiché ourselves. But, not before we had an incredible stay at the Quinta de Las Flores hotel (oasis) and an amazingly educational and fun tour of Finca La Azotea (organic coffee farm) given by the 4th generation owner.

Thanks again Jerry and LeAnn for such a fun trip! Keep on coming down friends and family, we love seeing familiar faces and showing off Guatemala.

Saturday, September 1, 2007

Our Work

Some of you may be wondering what we do all day, and where we spend our time. This last term we have mainly been teaching English classes to adults and children. All levels are beginners, with the exception of Toby's advanced class studying for their TOEFL exam. We seek donations and funding to our programs, whether that's through a formal grant or a motivated individual donor. In addition, we field emails and coordinate arrangements for future volunteers. So far we have 2, and possibly 4, lined up for the next year to teach English classes. Part of our success is due to the creation of our volunteer web page that we worked diligently on, and the formalization of a volunteer program here at Ajb'atz' Enlace Quiché. Check it out and direct any interested parties to volunteer with us.


This is where all the magic happens....at our tiny desks in the crowded Ajb'atz' office.

Apple Picking in Chitatul


Last weekend our good friend and co-worker Hilda asked Toby and me to come pick apples and other fruit with her in Chitatul. In this very nearby town her family owns property and rents out a small home where they lived as children. On their land they have apple, lime, orange, and newly planted papaya trees. They also grow squashes, corn, beans, and tomatoes. It's more than the family can eat themselves, so they sell some of the produce in the Quiché market.


About 20 years ago, during the civil war, the rebel Mayan groups were trying to gain more support and members. However, often when men in the community declined their invitation, the rebels would murder them. One day some rebels came to Hilda's house looking for her father, but he was away. Hilda's mom hid her children in the temascal to protect them from the guerrillas. (Note: The temascal is a home-made mud brick sauna/steam room fed by a wood burning fire. Apparently, it is common for indigenous women to use the temascal during their labor with children - Hilda's mom being one example.) After this episode, Hilda's family moved into the city for greater safety.


Personal accounts like this are what make being in Guatemala really special for us. We get to learn the stories of the people, their history, and culture. It was really fun for us to pluck so much fresh fruit from the trees. But, more importantly for us we had quality time with Hilda, which we took advantage of further by crossing the street and enjoying the lovely Libelula (dragonfly) Restaurant. Being one of the nicest restaurants in Quiché we couldn't resist enjoying a coffee and time on the playground and trampoline. What a perfect way to spend Sunday afternoon!