Happy Halloween

Happy Halloween to all of you who will be celebrating in various parts of the world. We hope it's a ghostly good time. Here in Guatemala Halloween really doesn't have any standing. There are no corn mazes, pumpkins, trick-or-treaters, costume parties, etc. Lucky for us, my mom (Nancy) sent a care package to Toby in Chicago that contained various Halloween themed items, so we were able to indulge a little. Thanks again Mom!


We definitely enjoyed the candy corn, candy corn bingo, and candy corn string of lights. We made full use of those during our mini Halloween celebration at home. Even Nieve got in on the action as well!

Monterrico Sea Turtles

Last weekend Toby and I took the opportunity of having no classes on Día de la Revolución to do a bit of traveling to the Pacific Coast town of Monterrico (far south from us). Part of our motivation was to see a new place in Guatemala and the chance to see sea turtles. At one time there were 250 species of sea turtles; now there are only eight worldwide. Of those eight, three species are indigenous to the southern coast of Guatemala: Parlama Blanca (the Olive Ridley), Parlama Negra (the East Pacific Green), and the largest of the sea turtles, Baule (the Leatherback).

Both types of Parlamas nest on the beach at Monterrico, fittingly named Baule Beach, between July and December. The Leatherbacks, however, nest between late October and December. As of last weekend no Leatherbacks had been spotted...and sadly only 4 were reported last year along the 25km stretch of beach. This indicates just how endangered these creatures are. Another sad predicament of all 3 species of sea turtles are the hueveros that comb the beaches at night searching for turtles nesting in aim to steal the eggs. This practice is probably due to lack of jobs and education, and from the myth that Parlama Negra eggs are aphrodisiacs. The common understanding on the beach, is that the first person to the turtle has dibs on the eggs to do what they wish. Unfortunately, during our 4 hours watching and searching in the night, with our friend Mike from Boston, we were unable to spot any female laying eggs. Most eggs that are laid on the beach are probably sold as food, and the others are thankfully donated by tour guides and tourists to the CECON (el Centro de Estudios Conservacionistas) tortugario.

This is where Toby and I visited to check out where many bundles of eggs are "incubating" safely under the watch of CECON workers that protect from predators, human and animal alike. We also were able to sign up (Q10 or $1.25 donation fee) to release baby sea turtles into the ocean that Saturday evening. During the peak season, almost every night baby turtles hatch from their eggs and are collected into a holding pool where they await their release into the ocean the following evening. We were able to check out the little Parlamas Negras in their pool before releasing them later in the evening.

When we let them go into the thrashing waves on the beach of Monterrico, the waves tossed them back up onto the black sand beach where they camouflaged and attempted again to make it out into the open ocean. As we watched, we hoped and prayed they were the one out of a thousand that would survive into adulthood (possibly 100 years). And, maybe someday they'll return to Baule Beach to mate and lay eggs themselves.

Electricity Blackout = Work BBQ

Last week on Wednesday we were forewarned at Ajb'atz' Enlace Quiché that there would be no electricity in all of Santa Cruz del Quiché on Thursday from 7am-6pm. This is the 3rd or 4th time this has occurred in the last few months due to the fixing of power lines in our neighborhood. Apparently that isn't possible without cutting off electricity to everybody. And, since Enlace Quiché basically is about computer technology, designing courses, and other public services like internet and copying, we pretty much can't do anything without electricity except teach our English classes. Therefore, the scheduled blackouts pretty much mean a free day from work, so we decided to have a staff bonding BBQ/potluck lunch at the volunteer house.

We all pooled money to buy ingredients at the market and sent a few staff members shopping for everything. Then we planned to prepare salads, grilled items, drinks, etc at the volunteer house. Toby and I were recruited to make our pineapple pico de gallo that we prepared a few months back for our last potluck...guess it was a hit! While all the women were inside chopping and washing veggies for salads, cooking beans on the stove, and making salsas, the men all pretty much hung outside around the BBQ grilling corn on the cob, green onions, and meat...typical. Toby was the only exception, as he was floating all over dabbling in each project. At last the feast was ready and we all chowed down on a very tasty lunch of 3 salads, grilled goods, tortillas, beans, and fresh limeade. Mmmm.

Of course no electricity is irritating since we have electric heated showers and also cannot do many other things. However, we just have to embrace the small annoyances that occur in a developing country and make the best of it....and we did! The lunch and camaraderie with our compañeros was very satisfying and memorable. We can't wait for the next electricity blackout. ;o)

San Pedro La Laguna

Lago de Atitlán (Lake Atitlán) is a large closed basin lake of volcanic origin in the Guatemalan Western Highlands. It is renowned as one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, and is only about 1.5 hours bus ride from Sta Cruz del Quiche! While Atitlán is recognized to be the deepest lake in Central America, its bottom has not been completely sounded. Estimates of its maximum depth range up to 340 meters. The lake is surrounded by three volcanoes, on its southern flank. Most notable are Atitlán at 11,598 feet (left) and San Pedro at 9,900 feet(right).

Many villages of the Maya people, mainly Tz'utujil and Kaqchikel, surround the lake shores. These very traditional communities blend with the tourism and ex-pat culture that mainly has evolved in Panajachel, but also spread over to San Pedro La Laguna and San Marcos La Laguna - San Pedro being our main feature of this post.

Although, San Pedro is known as the hippie/druggie community along Atitlán, that doesn't deter from its charm one bit. San Pedro is the cheapest and chillest community along Lake Atitlán, and part of our motivation for visiting. It is possible to find accommodations for under $3 a person, per night. Not to mention, the food selection is amazing, with tons of drink specials and vegetarian food at every eatery. These factors all played into our decision to meet with 4 other friends in San Pedro to celebrate Toby's birthday a few weeks back. We had such amazing weather, food, card playing, relaxation, and scenery that we are returning this weekend once again. I doubt this will be our last visit either....

Return to Sender

Well, after a quick and action packed 5 day stay in the Windy City and Eagle, WI, I am headed back in 6 hours to Guatemala. After arriving here in the States I had little time to relax before launching right in to taking the LSAT to enter law school. The day before the exam I made my way to Little Saigon where I had some excellent Vietnamese cuisine for a great price and bummed around the Northside in the Andersonville area of Chicago. Transitioning to live in the States wasn't too bad besides burning a hole in my wallet. It was hard to not chuckle how when I landed in Fort Lauderdale for my connection I had simply left Guatemala for Haiti/Cuba/Jamaica and then Chicago was simply a melting pot of everything. Basically I was a minority wherever I went (except for Wisconsin, chuckle). I will gloss over the exam saying it was tougher than many of the previous test which I had used to study and I did not do as well at I expected, though so far I do not know my results. Needless to say I am sure to get in somewhere and the test has not discouraged me from wanting to become a lawyer. After the exam I took the train for the 3rd time in my life to Wisconsin to visit my Uncle Randy and Aunt Camille in Eagle. The trip was the good comedown I needed after the test and was filled with wine, reading, pizza, beer (as was about everyday of the trip), and even a little fishing. I was happy to say that although the fish weren't biting I managed to catch one big Bluegill. Well, not too much more to report. I did some shopping for stuff to bring back that I am sure Brittany will love, including presents for birthday, anniversary, and such for the Mrs. along with taking in only a few sights. Special thanks goes out to Kristen Kaza, our cousin, who without meeting me prior gave me full reign of her car, apartment and just about everything. I couldn't have had such a smooth trip and test without her. You're the best! As for now I am off to try and sleep without worrying about my early flight (I need to leave in about 3 hours so basically i couldn't sleep and I am writing this instead) and am way too excited to go home and see my amazing wife who everyday I have wished was on this trip with me. For some reason things just aren't the same without her. Good thing I married her. See you soon Britt! Toby