Western Highland Trekking

Two weekends ago, Toby and I had the pleasure of getting out and doing a little hiking in a different region of the Quiché department. As one of the largest departments in Guatemala Quiché provides a vast array of colorful typical clothing and multiple indigenous languages. We traveled to Acul and Nebaj of the Ixil community to see some new ways of life.

This region of Guatemala is the Ixil Triangle, formed between the towns of Nebaj, Chajul, and Cotzal that speak the indigenous language Ixil (pronounced ee-sheel). Extreme violence and warfare took place in Nebaj and these other towns during the 30 year Guatemalan civil war that ended with the 1996 Peace Accords. The communities are slowing rebuilding their homes and lives after much displacement, disturbance and loss. Despite their past, the people in this region are positive, friendly, and hopeful.


Toby and I arrived in Nebaj on a bustling market day and immediately knew we weren't in Quiché anymore. The typical clothing is very different than what we are accustomed to seeing daily. The women's cortes (more or less skirts) are dark red, but sometimes dark blue, with sparse vertical thin yellow stripes. Their huipiles have intricate woven geometric designs made with a variety of colors. Some women also wear fancy head cloths woven into their braids and piled on their head with pom-pom tassels dangling down.


We headed out on our hike precariously because we didn't know any details, just to follow this road out of town and continue on a path. This path was to take us up a mountainside and over into another valley where the sleepy rural community of Acul lies. We successfully trekked across, getting caught in an afternoon rainstorm halfway through, but making it there joyfully. We had the pleasure of walking with a local man for a bit that was hiking up to tend to some cows in a field on the mountainside, in addition to seeing beautiful vistas of each community.


Acul offered us a chance to see a more simple way of life, how majority of Guatemalans live. Only about 400 people live in the community, each with their simple mud-brick home and patio gardens with farm animals roaming. I swear there was probably 10 animals to each human in the community because we saw so many baby cows, goats, sheep, pigs, chickens, turkeys, kittens, dogs and more! The best however was the beautiful Swiss-style chalet and farm that's been run by an Italian-Guatemalan family for over 50 years. The cows roam free on beautiful green pastures and make some of the best cheese in Guatemala. The scene was picturesque as we sipped on coffee and listened to the sounds of animals, instead of traffic and firecrackers.


If a bit boring, at least our trip to Acul and Nebaj was delightfully relaxing. The lack of house and street lights, noise pollution, and commerce was a nice treat. We watched fireflies twinkle in the fields, interacted with some sweet locals, and got back in touch with nature. Ahhh....peace.